What your Bertazzoni is doing, and what it usually turns out to be.

Oven not heating

An oven that sets a temperature and stays cold, or heats on one mode and not another. There is no code to read on this make, and there does not need to be: trying each mode before you call halves the diagnosis for nothing.

• Sets a temperature and stays cold
• Broils but will not bake
• A gas oven that glows and never lights

Oven running hot, cold or uneven

An oven that heats perfectly to a temperature that is not the one you set, or that browns on one side and undercooks on the other. Almost always a measurement problem rather than a heating one — and on this make it is measured with a thermometer, because there is nothing to read.

• Everything browning too fast or too slowly
• One side or one shelf consistently darker
• Baking that changed without anything else changing

Gas oven igniter not working

Eleven of the ranges in this line are all gas, which means the oven is a burner too. An oven that glows and never lights is the most misdiagnosed repair on a gas range, and the reason is that the igniter is also the switch.

• Glows orange and no flame follows
• Lights sometimes, usually when the kitchen is warm
• Takes longer and longer to catch

Oven fan not working

There are two fans in most of these ovens and they do completely different jobs. The convection fan moves air inside the cavity and is half the cooking; the cooling fan protects the controls and runs after the oven is switched off. Knowing which one has stopped is most of the diagnosis.

• Convection results gone uneven or slow
• A silent oven that used to hum
• A fan that runs on long after cooking, or not at all

Oven light not working

The smallest complaint on the site and one people put up with for years. Usually a bulb, occasionally a switch, and there is one thing about changing it that is worth knowing before you try — because the wrong bulb in an oven fails in weeks and can break in the socket.

• Dark cavity with everything else working
• A light that flickers or works only when cold
• A bulb replaced recently that has already gone

Oven display not working

A display gone blank, half-lit, or showing segments that make no sense. Before anybody quotes a control board it is worth knowing that most of these ovens have two, and that the one behind the display is usually the cheaper of the pair.

• Blank display over an oven that still heats
• Segments missing or stuck
• A clock that resets itself

Oven beeping

A beep on this make is not a code and does not translate to a number. It can be a timer nobody set, a door interlock, a control that has lost its settings, or an oven that genuinely wants attention — and the difference is in when it happens.

• Beeping with nothing on the display to explain it
• Beeping after a self-clean cycle
• Repeating beeps that start on their own

Burner will not light

It clicks and nothing catches, or one burner lights and the others do not, or there is no click at all. Nineteen of the thirty-four surfaces in this line are gas, and two of the four things that cause this cost nothing to put right.

• Clicking with no flame
• One burner out while the rest are fine
• No click and no spark at all

Burner will not hold a simmer

A burner that is perfect on high and will not stay lit on low, or that goes out when the pan goes on. The simmer is where a marginal burner shows itself first, months before anything obvious happens at full heat — which makes this an early warning rather than a breakdown.

• Fine on high, drops out on low
• Goes out when a pan is set on it
• A low flame that is uneven round the ring

Induction zone cutting out

One zone stops mid-cook while the rest keep going, or the whole surface shuts down under load and comes back a few minutes later. Twenty-eight machines in this line are induction, and the cabinet under the counter is the answer far more often than the appliance is.

• One zone quitting while the others carry on
• A code that clears and returns
• It happens with a big pan and not a small one

Cooktop controls not responding

A touch panel that answers some presses and not others, a knob that turns and does nothing, or a surface that ignores everything. A real share of these are a control lock or a wet panel, and both cost nothing to rule out.

• Some pads working and others not
• A lock symbol nobody can clear
• A knob that turns freely and changes nothing

Dishwasher not draining

Water standing over the filter plate at the end of a cycle, or a machine that stops part-way. These dishwashers publish real codes — the only appliance in the line that does — and the answer is very often something you can see with the filter in your hand.

• Water covering the filter at the end of a cycle
• A cycle that stops part-way
• A code that returns as soon as it fills

Dishwasher not cleaning

The cycle runs, the time counts down, and things come out dirty — or only the top rack does. In this city hard water is behind more of these than any component, and two of the checks that find it need no tools at all.

• Only the top rack coming out dirty
• Film or grit left on everything
• Cycles that run normally and achieve nothing

Dishwasher not drying

Everything comes out clean and wet, or plastics stay soaked while china is fine. Before anybody quotes a heater it is worth knowing that on a condensation-drying machine rinse aid is not optional — without it, water sheets and stays.

• Clean but wet at the end of every cycle
• Plastics wet while china is dry
• Drying that got worse gradually

Dishwasher will not start

The panel lights, you press start, and nothing happens — or nothing lights at all. The door latch is the answer far more often than the electronics, and it is one of the least expensive parts in the machine.

• Lights on, nothing happens on start
• Completely dead panel
• Starts only if the door is pushed hard

Dishwasher beeping or panel unresponsive

Beeping that will not stop, a panel that answers half its presses, or a machine that has stopped mid-cycle and is complaining. On this appliance — unlike the rest of the line — there is usually a code behind it, and the code is worth more than the sound.

• Beeping with a cycle abandoned part-way
• Some pads working, others dead
• A code that will not clear

Refrigerator not cooling

The fresh food side warm while the freezer is cold, or both drifting together. Almost none of this is the compressor everybody fears — it is far more often a fan, a damper or a defrost cycle that is not completing.

• Fridge warm and freezer cold
• Both compartments drifting up together
• Running constantly and still not holding

Not making ice

The ice maker has stopped, or makes cubes that are small and hollow, or fills and never releases. Three questions split every one of these calls, and any owner can answer all three by watching.

• Stopped completely with everything else fine
• Cubes small, hollow or misshapen
• Fills and will not release

Water dispenser not working

No water at the dispenser, water that trickles, or water that will not stop. The path is short and every part of it is ordinary — and the commonest cause of all is a filter nobody has changed.

• Nothing at all from the dispenser
• A trickle rather than a flow
• Water that keeps running after you let go

Refrigerator beeping

A refrigerator that beeps is nearly always saying one of two things: a door has been open too long, or the temperature has gone outside the band it will accept. Both are worth acting on rather than silencing.

• Beeping with a door apparently closed
• An alarm after a power cut
• Beeping that started with no obvious change

Freezer not freezing

Ice cream that has gone soft, frost building on the back wall, or a column that runs constantly and still will not hold. Every freezer in this line is a built-in column, which changes the access but not the diagnosis.

• Soft ice cream with the display reading correctly
• Frost on the back wall or round the fan
• Running constantly without holding

Range hood not clearing the air

The hood runs, the kitchen still fills with steam, and nothing about the appliance is broken. This is the most under-diagnosed complaint in the kitchen: a hood is a blower, a filter and a path, and three of the four things that stop it working are not in the hood.

• Runs at full speed and clears nothing
• Got gradually worse over a year or two
• Has never really worked since it was installed

Microwave not heating

The turntable turns, the light comes on, the timer counts down and the food is cold. Four microwaves in this line and three different machines behind that one symptom — and this is the one appliance on the site with no owner-side checks worth doing.

• Everything runs and nothing gets warm
• A drawer that will not open or will not start
• An over-the-range unit whose fan works and microwave does not

Ranges

Thirty-seven ranges in the current line and the reason most people know this maker at all. Eleven are all gas, nine dual fuel, thirteen induction; ten of them run brass burners and sixteen carry a cast iron griddle across the middle. A 48-inch range is two ovens, six burners and that griddle in one machine, and any one of those is a reason to call. Almost none of it announces a code when it stops — this is a make you diagnose by what it does, not by what it displays.

Cooktops and rangetops

Thirty-four surfaces: nineteen gas, fifteen induction, and nine of them rangetops rather than cooktops — the same repair under a different word. Ten run the same brass burners as the ranges. The induction tops publish no code table — the maker issues installation sheets for them and nothing more — so what settles an induction call is the cabinet underneath and whether its boards can shed their heat.

Wall ovens

Eighteen built-in ovens, and they are not all the same machine. Five are speed ovens — a microwave and a convection oven sharing one cavity — five cook with steam, eight self-clean, and three carry the maker's own guided cooking. Two are doubles. What they have in common is that they are built into cabinetry, which decides how a repair starts: the oven comes forward before anything else happens.

Range hoods and ventilation

Thirty-seven hoods, which is as many as there are ranges — this maker expects the two to be bought together. Twenty-one are wall mounts, seven chimney hoods, five inserts built into a cabinet, three island hoods hanging over a counter. Nineteen move 600 cubic feet a minute. When one stops pulling, most of the diagnosis is not in the hood.

Refrigerators

Thirty refrigerators, and they divide sharply: seventeen freestanding machines that can be pulled out into the room, eleven built-in, and five columns that live behind your own cabinet fronts. Twelve are French door, thirteen bottom mount. Which of those you have decides almost everything about how the visit goes — a column comes apart before it can be diagnosed, and a freestanding bottom mount does not.

Dishwashers

Eight dishwashers, and the one part of this make that talks. Five are tall tub, three standard; one is panel ready and one is an 18-inch. Two run at 39 decibels, which is quiet enough that "it has stopped" and "it is running" can be hard to tell apart. Unlike almost everything else here, these publish a real error table — F1 through F9, plus FF and HI, each with a meaning the maker prints — and a code is worth writing down before you touch anything.

Freezer columns

Five freezers, and every one of them is a built-in column — 18, 24 and 30 inches, two of them with an ice maker inside. There is no chest freezer and no freestanding upright in this line at all. A column is a piece of the kitchen rather than an appliance standing in it, and that decides how the repair begins: the front comes off before anything is measured.

Wine cellars

Four wine cellars, both widths, all of them built-in columns that wear your own cabinet fronts. A wine cellar is not a cold refrigerator: it is asked to hold a narrow band of temperature and a sensible humidity for years without interruption, and to do it quietly and without vibration. That is why the complaints here are different from every other cold appliance on this site.

Microwaves

Four microwaves and three of them are different machines: two over-the-range units that double as the hood, a 30-inch built-in, and a microwave drawer that opens downward from under the counter. The drawer is the one worth knowing about — it is a different mechanism from anything else on this site, and it fails in ways a door-and-hinge microwave never does.

Built-in coffee makers

One built-in coffee maker, 24 inches, and it is the most mechanically busy appliance in the kitchen: a grinder, a brew group, a pump, a boiler, a milk path and a water path, all of them working several times a day. Almost every call we get about one of these is water, scale or the milk circuit — and in South Florida the first two are the same subject.