--- title: "Oven not heating" description: "Bertazzoni oven not heating — an oven that sets a temperature and stays cold, or heats on one mode and not another." url: "https://bertazzonimiami.support/symptoms/oven-not-heating/" date_modified: "2026-08-27" Appliance type: "Ranges, Wall ovens" --- # Bertazzoni oven not heating ### The fastest diagnosis is what you can see Try bake, broil and convection in turn before you call. They use different elements, so an oven that broils has already ruled out most of what could be wrong. On a gas oven, look through the vent while it tries to start: an igniter that glows orange and never produces flame is a completely different repair from one that never glows at all. ### Working without a code Six of the nine sites in this fleet start a diagnosis by reading a number off a display. This one cannot, and it changes what is worth doing before you call. Trying each mode in turn takes four minutes and tells a technician which circuit is missing — which is precisely what a code would have told him. Watching a gas oven try to light tells him whether he is bringing an igniter or a valve. ### Sensor or element They fail differently and the behavior says which. A sensor reading open leaves the control with no temperature to work from, so the oven will not heat at all and often will not even start. An element that has failed lets the oven warm slowly, or from one direction only, or on one mode and not another. Both are ordinary repairs and both cost far less than the control board people assume it must be. A bake or broil element that has failed open The commonest answer on an electric or dual-fuel oven, and often visible: a blister, a break, or a bright spot where it has burned through. The cavity sensor reading open With no believable temperature the control will not heat at all. It is a resistance measured against a table rather than a judgment call, and it is one of the cheaper parts in the appliance. On a gas oven, a weak igniter It glows perfectly and no longer draws enough current to open the safety valve. This is why a gas oven lights sometimes and not others, and it is the single most misdiagnosed repair on a gas range. The safety valve itself Less common than the igniter and often blamed for it. The two are only told apart by measuring what the igniter draws under load. A relay on the power board that will not close The element is sound and nothing is switching it. Real, but last on the list rather than first — and much rarer than the part it gets blamed for. Which modes work Bake, broil, convection. Different elements, and the answer halves the diagnosis before anybody arrives. On gas, watch for the glow Through the vent, from cold. Glow with no flame, and no glow at all, are two different repairs. Look at the element On an electric oven a failed element is often visible — a blister, a split, or a bright patch. Cold appliance, door open, torch. Check the breaker properly Off and fully back on. A double-pole breaker can drop one leg and still look set, which leaves a live display over a cold oven. Which mode fails tells you the part What it usually means Sets a temperature and stays cold Broils but will not bake A gas oven that glows and never lights The fastest diagnosis is what you can see Try bake, broil and convection in turn before you call. They use different elements, so an oven that broils has already ruled out most of what could be wrong. On a gas oven, look through the vent while it tries to start: an igniter that glows orange and never produces flame is a completely different repair from one that never glows at all. Working without a code Six of the nine sites in this fleet start a diagnosis by reading a number off a display. This one cannot, and it changes what is worth doing before you call. Trying each mode in turn takes four minutes and tells a technician which circuit is missing — which is precisely what a code would have told him. Watching a gas oven try to light tells him whether he is bringing an igniter or a valve. Sensor or element They fail differently and the behavior says which. A sensor reading open leaves the control with no temperature to work from, so the oven will not heat at all and often will not even start. An element that has failed lets the oven warm slowly, or from one direction only, or on one mode and not another. Both are ordinary repairs and both cost far less than the control board people assume it must be. ### It broils but will not bake. Then the control and the broil circuit are both fine and the bake element or its relay is not. That is genuinely good news: it is one of the cheaper repairs on this appliance, and on an electric oven the element is often visibly damaged once you look. ### My gas oven glows but never lights. Almost certainly the igniter, even though it looks perfect. On a gas oven the igniter is also the switch — it has to draw a specific current before the safety valve will open, and it loses that ability long before it loses its glow. It is measured with a clamp meter, not judged by eye. ### Is there a code I should be reading? Not on this make. The ovens and gas ranges publish nothing, which is the manufacturer's choice rather than a gap on our side. What replaces a code is the mode test above, and honestly it narrows things further than a code table would. ### It heats but takes forever. That is a different page and usually a different part — an element working at reduced output, a door that has stopped sealing, or a convection fan that has stopped. Run a strip of paper round the closed door: where it pulls out easily, heat is leaving. --- **[Read full article: Oven not heating](https://bertazzonimiami.support/symptoms/oven-not-heating/)**