--- title: "Gas oven igniter not working" description: "Bertazzoni gas oven igniter not working — eleven of the ranges in this line are all gas, which means the oven is a burner too." url: "https://bertazzonimiami.support/symptoms/oven-igniter-not-working/" date_modified: "2026-08-27" Appliance type: "Ranges, Wall ovens" --- # Bertazzoni gas oven igniter not working ### The fastest diagnosis is what you can see Watch a cold start through the oven vent and time it. A healthy igniter brings gas within about a minute; one that glows for two or three minutes and gives up is failing even though it looks perfect. If you smell gas at any point, stop, ventilate, and call the gas supplier before you call anybody else. ### How a gas oven decides to light No pilot and no spark. A glow igniter heats until it draws enough current to operate a safety valve; the valve opens, gas arrives, and the igniter is already hot enough to light it. The whole arrangement exists so gas cannot flow unless something is hot enough to burn it — which is good engineering, and which is why the igniter is a switch as well as a flame source. ### The measurement that settles it A clamp meter round the igniter lead during a start cycle. A healthy igniter draws within a known range; a failing one does not, and the number is not ambiguous. Thirty seconds of measurement is the difference between replacing the right part and replacing both. A weak igniter — the usual answer It opens the safety valve by drawing current through it, and it loses that ability long before it loses its glow. A bright, healthy-looking igniter can be entirely responsible for an oven that never lights. The safety valve Real, and much less common than the igniter it is confused with. Only a current measurement separates the two, which is why guessing here means buying both. A supply problem A partly closed valve, or a range converted between natural gas and propane without the right orifices. Worth ruling out because it is free and because it produces a lazy flame everywhere rather than at one burner. A wiring or connector failure at the igniter The igniter sits in the hottest part of the appliance and its connections age with it. Cheap to put right once found. The control that commands the cycle Last on the list rather than first. If the igniter never glows at all, the control is a candidate; if it glows, it is not. Does it glow at all Glow with no flame and no glow whatsoever are two entirely different repairs. Look through the vent from cold. A minute is normal. Two or three minutes and then nothing is a failing igniter, even a bright one. Does the cooktop work The burners on top use spark and sensing, not a glow igniter. Burners working perfectly tells you the gas supply is fine and the problem is under the oven. Any smell of gas means stop, ventilate and call the supplier. That is not a repair question. It glows, and that is not the same as working What it usually means Glows orange and no flame follows Lights sometimes, usually when the kitchen is warm Takes longer and longer to catch The fastest diagnosis is what you can see Watch a cold start through the oven vent and time it. A healthy igniter brings gas within about a minute; one that glows for two or three minutes and gives up is failing even though it looks perfect. If you smell gas at any point, stop, ventilate, and call the gas supplier before you call anybody else. How a gas oven decides to light No pilot and no spark. A glow igniter heats until it draws enough current to operate a safety valve; the valve opens, gas arrives, and the igniter is already hot enough to light it. The whole arrangement exists so gas cannot flow unless something is hot enough to burn it — which is good engineering, and which is why the igniter is a switch as well as a flame source. The measurement that settles it A clamp meter round the igniter lead during a start cycle. A healthy igniter draws within a known range; a failing one does not, and the number is not ambiguous. Thirty seconds of measurement is the difference between replacing the right part and replacing both. ### It looks fine to me. How can it be the igniter? Because the glow is not the job. The igniter has to draw a specific current for the safety valve to open, and as it ages it draws less while still glowing brightly. That is the entire reason gas ovens get misdiagnosed as control problems: the part that has failed looks exactly like a part that is working. ### Is it safe to keep using while I wait? Intermittent ignition is worth attending to promptly. The safety system is working correctly — no flame, no gas — but an oven that takes several attempts is one whose igniter is at the end of its life. If you smell gas at any point, stop using it and call the gas supplier. ### Why does it light in the evening and not in the morning? A marginal igniter is temperature sensitive: in a warm kitchen it reaches the current it needs a little sooner. That pattern is one of the clearest signs of an aging igniter rather than anything else, and it is worth mentioning when you book. ### My range is dual fuel. Then this is not your page — a dual-fuel range has electric ovens and no oven igniter at all. Nine of these ranges are dual fuel and thirteen are induction, so most of the line is not gas underneath. --- **[Read full article: Gas oven igniter not working](https://bertazzonimiami.support/symptoms/oven-igniter-not-working/)**