--- title: "Burner will not light" description: "Bertazzoni burner will not light — it clicks and nothing catches, or one burner lights and the others do not, or there is no click at all." url: "https://bertazzonimiami.support/symptoms/burner-will-not-light/" date_modified: "2026-08-27" Appliance type: "Cooktops and rangetops, Ranges" --- # Bertazzoni burner will not light ### The fastest diagnosis is what you can see Lift the burner cap off, check it is dry and clean, and set it back squarely — a cap a fraction out of place is the single commonest reason a sealed burner will not light or will not stop clicking. Then clear the ports with a straightened paper clip, never a drill or a wire that widens them. Both of those take five minutes and neither costs anything. ### Four causes, and the first two are free Cap seating and port blockage between them account for a large share of the burners that will not light on this make, and both are things an owner can put right in ten minutes with nothing but warm water and patience. It is worth doing before booking anybody, and we would rather tell you that than take the call. ### The pattern tells you where to look All burners dead: supply, power or module. Several dead with one alive: module. One dead with the rest perfect: that burner’s electrode, its port or its valve. Nothing else about a gas cooktop is as informative as which burners are affected, which is why it is the first thing we ask. A burner cap out of position Free, immediate, and behind more of these calls than any part. It only has to be a fraction proud to stop the flame crossing to the port. Blocked ports A boil-over that has cooked into the burner. Clears with patience and a paper clip; ruined by a drill, which changes the gas flow permanently. A wet or cracked electrode After a spill, or after years. An electrode that is damp will not spark and one that is cracked will spark somewhere useless. The spark module Several burners dead with one working points here. The spark is generated once and distributed, so the pattern of which burners fail is the diagnosis. The valve or its orifice One burner alone with a good spark and gas everywhere else. Also where an incomplete propane conversion shows itself. Is the cap seated square Off, dry, back on, sitting flat. First thing, every time. Which burners fail One, some or all. All of them points at supply or module; one points at that burner. Is there a spark you can see In a dim kitchen it is visible. Clicking with no visible spark is the electrode. Do the others light normally If they do, the gas supply to the appliance is fine and the problem is local. Spark, gas, or seating What it usually means Clicking with no flame One burner out while the rest are fine No click and no spark at all The fastest diagnosis is what you can see Lift the burner cap off, check it is dry and clean, and set it back squarely — a cap a fraction out of place is the single commonest reason a sealed burner will not light or will not stop clicking. Then clear the ports with a straightened paper clip, never a drill or a wire that widens them. Both of those take five minutes and neither costs anything. Four causes, and the first two are free Cap seating and port blockage between them account for a large share of the burners that will not light on this make, and both are things an owner can put right in ten minutes with nothing but warm water and patience. It is worth doing before booking anybody, and we would rather tell you that than take the call. The pattern tells you where to look All burners dead: supply, power or module. Several dead with one alive: module. One dead with the rest perfect: that burner’s electrode, its port or its valve. Nothing else about a gas cooktop is as informative as which burners are affected, which is why it is the first thing we ask. ### It clicks even after the burner has lit. Take the pan off, let it cool, lift the cap and reseat it squarely. A cap slightly out of place is the commonest cause; a boil-over into the port and a draft from an open slider will both do it as well. If it still clicks with a clean, dry, correctly seated cap and a steady blue flame, the sensing side wants looking at. ### No burner lights and there is no clicking at all. Check the obvious first because it is free: is the gas actually on, and has the appliance got power? Sealed gas burners need electricity for the spark, so a range that has lost its supply will not light even though the gas is fine. After that it is the module. ### Can I clean the burners myself? Yes, and on this make it is worth doing well, because ten of these cooktops use brass burners that reward it. Warm water, a soft brush, a straightened paper clip. What ruins them is an abrasive pad, a caustic cleaner or a dishwasher — all three strip brass permanently. ### The flame is yellow rather than blue. Worth a call rather than a wait. Yellow means the mixture is wrong — too little air or too much gas — and the ordinary causes are a blocked air shutter, a partly obstructed port, or an appliance set up for the wrong gas. A range converted between natural gas and propane without the right orifices shows exactly this. --- **[Read full article: Burner will not light](https://bertazzonimiami.support/symptoms/burner-will-not-light/)**