--- title: "Range burner & ignition repair" description: "Bertazzoni range burner and ignition repair — the commonest call on this make by a distance." url: "https://bertazzonimiami.support/services/range-burner-and-ignition-repair/" date_modified: "2026-08-27" Appliance type: "Cooktops and rangetops, Ranges" --- # Bertazzoni range burner & ignition repair ### One symptom, four different repairs - **No spark at all.** The module, its supply, or the switch in the knob that tells it to fire. - **Sparks but will not catch.** Gas is not arriving, or is arriving somewhere the spark is not: a blocked port, a cap out of position, an orifice sized for the other fuel. - **Catches and dies.** Flame sensing. The appliance is deciding it cannot see a flame and shutting the gas off, which is the safety system working correctly on bad information. - **Will not hold a simmer.** The low setting is where a marginal burner shows itself first — a partly blocked port, a valve that no longer meters accurately at the bottom of its range. ### Brass burners, and why they change the advice Ten of the thirty-seven ranges in this line run brass burners, and brass behaves differently from plated steel: it holds its shape under repeated heat far better, and it discolors in a way that looks like damage and usually is not. A brass cap that has gone dull and blotchy is almost always a good burner with cooked-on spill in it. That is a clean, not a part. ### What there is not: a code No gas range on this make displays an error. There is nothing to read out and nothing to clear, so the diagnosis is the flame itself. If you can tell us whether it sparks, whether it catches, whether it holds on low and what color it burns, you have given a technician more than a code would. ### What the repair costs Burner and ignition work starts at $155. The exact figure is confirmed on site once the spark, the sensing and the supply have been separated, and agreed with you before anything is opened. What this involves Spark, sensing and gas supply separated before any part is named Caps and ports cleaned and seated — the two free causes Every burner run and watched before we leave, not only the one you called about Watch it do the thing you described Whether it sparks at all, whether it catches, whether it holds, and whether it only misbehaves on low. Those four observations point at four different parts, and doing them in front of you takes two minutes. The free causes first A burner cap sitting a fraction proud, a port blocked by a boil-over, a wet electrode after a spill, a grate not seated. On a gas cooktop these account for a large share of "it will not light" calls and none of them costs a part. Spark, sensing and supply, measured separately The spark module and its electrodes, the flame sensing that decides whether gas keeps flowing, and the supply and regulator behind it. A burner that lights and dies three seconds later is a sensing question; one that never sparks is not. Rebuild or replace, then prove it Electrode, module, valve or orifice as the measurement dictates. Then every burner is lit, run up and taken down to simmer with the caps in place, because a burner that works while cold and fails hot is a repair that has not finished. One symptom, four different repairs No spark at all. The module, its supply, or the switch in the knob that tells it to fire. Sparks but will not catch. Gas is not arriving, or is arriving somewhere the spark is not: a blocked port, a cap out of position, an orifice sized for the other fuel. Catches and dies. Flame sensing. The appliance is deciding it cannot see a flame and shutting the gas off, which is the safety system working correctly on bad information. Will not hold a simmer. The low setting is where a marginal burner shows itself first — a partly blocked port, a valve that no longer meters accurately at the bottom of its range. Brass burners, and why they change the advice Ten of the thirty-seven ranges in this line run brass burners, and brass behaves differently from plated steel: it holds its shape under repeated heat far better, and it discolors in a way that looks like damage and usually is not. A brass cap that has gone dull and blotchy is almost always a good burner with cooked-on spill in it. That is a clean, not a part. What there is not: a code No gas range on this make displays an error. There is nothing to read out and nothing to clear, so the diagnosis is the flame itself. If you can tell us whether it sparks, whether it catches, whether it holds on low and what color it burns, you have given a technician more than a code would. What the repair costs Burner and ignition work starts at $155. The exact figure is confirmed on site once the spark, the sensing and the supply have been separated, and agreed with you before anything is opened. ### It clicks even after the burner has lit. Is it broken? Usually not. Take the pan off, let it cool, lift the cap and set it back squarely — a cap a fraction out of place is the commonest reason a sealed burner keeps sparking at a flame that is already there. A boil-over into the port and a draft from an open slider will both do it as well. If it still clicks with a clean, dry, correctly seated cap and a steady blue flame, the sensing side wants looking at. ### One burner lights and the others do not. That is good news, because it rules out the supply and most of the module in one observation. On these cooktops the spark is generated once and distributed, so several dead burners with one working usually means the module; one dead burner with the rest working usually means that burner's electrode, its wire, or the port it sits in. ### The flame is yellow and lazy rather than blue. Worth a call rather than a wait. Yellow means the mixture is wrong — too little air or too much gas — and the ordinary causes are a blocked air shutter, a port partly obstructed, or an appliance set up for the wrong gas. That last one matters: a range converted between natural gas and propane needs the right orifices and the right regulator setting, and a conversion done incompletely shows up exactly this way. ### Can I clean the burners myself? Yes, and on this make it is worth doing properly because ten of these ranges use brass burners that reward it. Warm water, a soft brush and a straightened paper clip through the ports. What ruins them is an abrasive pad or a caustic oven cleaner, which takes the surface off brass and it never looks right again. ### How long does the repair take? Most ignition work is done in one visit: electrodes, modules and igniters are stocked parts and the cooktop is reached from above. What extends it is a valve, which means going in from underneath or from the front, and on a rangetop set into stone that is a longer job than on a freestanding range. --- **[Read full article: Range burner & ignition repair](https://bertazzonimiami.support/services/range-burner-and-ignition-repair/)**