--- title: "Dual-fuel oven element & sensor repair" description: "Bertazzoni dual-fuel oven element and sensor repair: gas on top, electric underneath — nine of these ranges are built that way, and it is the arrangement…" url: "https://bertazzonimiami.support/services/dual-fuel-oven-repair/" date_modified: "2026-08-27" Appliance type: "Ranges, Wall ovens" --- # Bertazzoni dual-fuel oven element & sensor repair ### What a dual-fuel range is, and why it exists Gas above and electric below, because they are good at different things: gas gives instant, visible control at the pan, and an electric oven holds a steadier, drier heat than a gas one and does better with convection. Nine of the thirty-seven ranges in this line are built this way. For a repair it matters because the two halves are electrically and mechanically separate — the burner problem and the oven problem are two different jobs. ### The three parts that account for most calls - **The temperature sensor.** Cheap, easy to measure, and the reason most ovens run hot or cold. - **The bake or broil element.** Usually visible once you know what to look for — a blister, a break, a bright spot. - **The door seal and hinges.** Not glamorous, and responsible for a surprising share of “it takes forever to preheat”. ### The one people expect and rarely need The control board. It is the most expensive part in the oven and it is the least likely to be the answer, which is why nothing here is ordered before the sensor has been measured and the elements have been tested. An oven that is wrong by a consistent amount is almost never a board. ### What the repair costs Element and sensor work starts at $185. A control, in the cases where the measurement really does point there, is quoted separately and only after the cheaper answers have been ruled out in front of you. What this involves The sensor checked first, because it is the usual answer and the cheapest Bake, broil and convection measured as three separate circuits The door seal tested, because an oven cannot hold what it cannot keep in Find out how wrong it is, and how consistently An oven that is thirty degrees out every time is a different problem from one that is out by different amounts on different days. The first points at the sensor, the second at the seal or the element. Measure the sensor cold An oven temperature sensor is a resistance with a known value at a known temperature. It takes a minute to check and it is the reason most ovens run hot or cold, which is why it comes before anything is opened up. Bake, broil and convection separately Three elements, three circuits, and they fail one at a time. An oven that browns but will not bake through is a different repair from one that does neither, and both are cheaper than the control they get blamed on. Check what the door is doing A seal that has hardened or a hinge that has dropped lets an oven lose what it makes, and the symptom — never quite gets there, takes far too long — reads exactly like an element problem. It is checked before a part is ordered. What a dual-fuel range is, and why it exists Gas above and electric below, because they are good at different things: gas gives instant, visible control at the pan, and an electric oven holds a steadier, drier heat than a gas one and does better with convection. Nine of the thirty-seven ranges in this line are built this way. For a repair it matters because the two halves are electrically and mechanically separate — the burner problem and the oven problem are two different jobs. The three parts that account for most calls The temperature sensor. Cheap, easy to measure, and the reason most ovens run hot or cold. The bake or broil element. Usually visible once you know what to look for — a blister, a break, a bright spot. The door seal and hinges. Not glamorous, and responsible for a surprising share of “it takes forever to preheat”. The one people expect and rarely need The control board. It is the most expensive part in the oven and it is the least likely to be the answer, which is why nothing here is ordered before the sensor has been measured and the elements have been tested. An oven that is wrong by a consistent amount is almost never a board. What the repair costs Element and sensor work starts at $185. A control, in the cases where the measurement really does point there, is quoted separately and only after the cheaper answers have been ruled out in front of you. ### My oven runs hot. Is that the thermostat? There is no thermostat in the old sense on a modern oven. There is a temperature sensor — a thin probe at the back of the cavity — and a control that reads it. An oven that is consistently hot or consistently cold while behaving normally otherwise is a sensor first, and that is one of the cheaper parts in the appliance. ### What is different about dual fuel? The top and the bottom are two different appliances sharing a frame. Gas burners above, electric elements below. It means a range whose burners are perfect can have an oven that is entirely electrical, and it means the parts on the van for a burner call are not the parts for an oven call. Telling us which half has the problem saves a visit. ### It takes far longer to preheat than it used to. Three candidates and they are easy to separate. A bake element that has partly failed, which usually shows visible damage. A door seal that has hardened, which you can feel by running a hand round the closed door for warm air. Or a convection fan that has stopped, on an oven that relies on it. All three are ordinary repairs and none is the control board. ### Is it worth repairing an oven this old? On this make, usually yes, and the reason is the rest of the range. These are heavy machines with brass burners and cast iron grates on top, and an oven repair underneath is a fraction of replacing all of it. What changes the answer is a control board on a discontinued platform, and we will tell you plainly if that is where yours has ended up. --- **[Read full article: Dual-fuel oven element & sensor repair](https://bertazzonimiami.support/services/dual-fuel-oven-repair/)**