---
title: "Dishwasher drain &#038; filter repair"
description: "Bertazzoni dishwasher drain and filter repair: water standing in the bottom at the end of a cycle, or a machine that stops part-way."
url: "https://bertazzonimiami.support/services/dishwasher-drain-and-filter-repair/"
date_modified: "2026-08-27"
Appliance type: "Dishwashers"
---


# Bertazzoni dishwasher drain & filter repair

### The one machine here with a code table

Almost nothing else this maker builds reports an error. Its dishwashers do — the maker prints a meaning and an instruction for F1 through F9, FF and HI — which makes them the most diagnosable appliance on this site. Write the code down exactly, including the letter, and note whether it survives a power cycle. That is worth more than any description.

### The order that finds the answer

- **The filter and the sump.** Glass, stickers, bone. Visible, free, and often it.
- **The drain hose.** Crushed, kinked, or without its high loop.
- **The disposal.** A knockout plug left in when the disposal was fitted blocks the dishwasher completely, and it is not the dishwasher.
- **The pump.** Last, and only once the path is proven clear.

### Why the order matters to your bill

A drain pump is a part and a fitting charge. A knockout plug is two minutes. They present identically. Working from the outside in is what keeps the second from being billed as the first.

### What the repair costs

Drain and filter work starts at $145. Where the cause turns out to be a blocked path rather than a component, that is a smaller job and it is priced as one.

What this involves

The code read and recorded before anything is cleared

Filter, sump, hose and disposal checked in that order

A full cycle run and the drain watched before we leave

Read the code, if there is one

These dishwashers publish a real table — F1 through F9, plus FF and HI — and they are one of only two appliance families in the line that publish anything at all. Which code, whether it returns after a power cycle, and how fast, narrows the visit before it starts.

Filter out, sump inspected

Glass, a fruit sticker, a bone chip. This is what actually blocks these machines, it is visible with the filter in your hand, and it is worth doing before you call because it sometimes ends the problem.

Follow the drain out of the machine

The hose where it goes under the sink, pushed flat behind a bin; the high loop that stops the sink draining back; and a garbage disposal fitted without its knockout plug removed, which is a classic and is not the dishwasher at all.

Then the pump

Only once the path is clear. A drain pump that is genuinely failed is an ordinary part; a drain pump replaced with a blocked hose still attached is a repeat visit.

The one machine here with a code table

Almost nothing else this maker builds reports an error. Its dishwashers do — the maker prints a meaning and an instruction for F1 through F9, FF and HI — which makes them the most diagnosable appliance on this site. Write the code down exactly, including the letter, and note whether it survives a power cycle. That is worth more than any description.

The order that finds the answer

The filter and the sump. Glass, stickers, bone. Visible, free, and often it.

The drain hose. Crushed, kinked, or without its high loop.

The disposal. A knockout plug left in when the disposal was fitted blocks the dishwasher completely, and it is not the dishwasher.

The pump. Last, and only once the path is proven clear.

Why the order matters to your bill

A drain pump is a part and a fitting charge. A knockout plug is two minutes. They present identically. Working from the outside in is what keeps the second from being billed as the first.

What the repair costs

Drain and filter work starts at $145. Where the cause turns out to be a blocked path rather than a component, that is a smaller job and it is priced as one.

### How much water in the bottom is normal?

A small amount in the sump is normal and by design — it keeps the seal wet. A pool covering the filter plate is not. If you are unsure, the filter plate is the line: water above it at the end of a cycle wants looking at.

### What can I check before calling?

Three things, all free. Lift the filter out, rinse it, and look in the sump underneath for something that should not be there. Look under the sink at where the drain hose runs, for a hose crushed behind a bin. And if a garbage disposal was fitted after the dishwasher, check its knockout plug was removed — that one causes this exact symptom and is not an appliance problem at all.

### It drains but very slowly.

Usually a partial restriction rather than a failed pump: a filter that has not been out in a year, a hose with a build-up, or a high loop that has slipped. Slow draining is worth reporting early because it is the cheap stage of the same problem that later presents as no draining.

### The code came back after I cleared it.

That is useful and worth telling us. A code that clears and stays away for days is a different conversation from one that returns on the next fill. The second usually means the machine is detecting the same condition immediately, which points at the path rather than at an intermittent sensor.

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