--- title: "Cooktops and rangetops" description: "Bertazzoni cooktops and rangetops: thirty-four surfaces: nineteen gas, fifteen induction, and nine of them rangetops rather than cooktops — the same repair…" url: "https://bertazzonimiami.support/appliances/cooktop/" date_modified: "2026-08-27" Appliance type: "Cooktops and rangetops" --- # Bertazzoni cooktops and rangetops ### Two kinds of surface, and they fail in two different ways - **Sealed gas — nineteen of the thirty-four.** Spark modules, igniter electrodes, flame sensing and caps that have to sit squarely. Most “will not light” calls are one of those four, and two of them are free to check at the counter. - **Induction — fifteen.** A coil and a power board per position. Failures are electronic and thermal: a zone that cuts out under load, an error that appears with a large pan and not a small one, a cooling fan working against a cabinet that was sealed after the appliance went in. Almost never the glass itself. ### The rangetops Nine of these are rangetops rather than cooktops — the top half of a range, with a raised back and front controls, sitting above a wall oven or drawers. Because there is no oven underneath, everything is reached from the top and the front, which usually makes a burner problem a shorter appointment than the same problem on a range. ### There is no code table for these, and it is worth knowing that before you go looking Every manual this maker links from its own product pages was read. The induction cooktop pages carry installation sheets and no chapter of codes at all, so anything you find online offered as a table of this maker’s induction codes has no first-party source behind it. If your top shows something, photograph it and note what it was doing — that combination still distinguishes a board that has failed from a board that is protecting itself, which are very different repairs and very different bills. ### Induction and the Miami island The single most common reason an induction top misbehaves in this city is a cabinet with nowhere for air to go. The installation instructions ask for a specific opening and a specific clearance; a beautiful sealed island built afterwards does not know that, and the appliance shows it as an intermittent zone rather than as a breakdown. Worth checking before it is worth quoting. ### What to have ready when you call The model number, which is on the underside and usually needs a phone held up into the cabinet, whether it is gas or induction, whether the problem is one zone or all of them, and the code exactly as it appears if there is one. Induction · Sealed gas · Brass burners · Rangetops · 24" · 30" · 36" · 48" Cooktop repair One induction zone cutting out while the rest keep going A gas burner clicking without catching, or dropping out on simmer A code on the induction panel that comes back after the power is cycled Two kinds of surface, and they fail in two different ways Sealed gas — nineteen of the thirty-four. Spark modules, igniter electrodes, flame sensing and caps that have to sit squarely. Most “will not light” calls are one of those four, and two of them are free to check at the counter. Induction — fifteen. A coil and a power board per position. Failures are electronic and thermal: a zone that cuts out under load, an error that appears with a large pan and not a small one, a cooling fan working against a cabinet that was sealed after the appliance went in. Almost never the glass itself. The rangetops Nine of these are rangetops rather than cooktops — the top half of a range, with a raised back and front controls, sitting above a wall oven or drawers. Because there is no oven underneath, everything is reached from the top and the front, which usually makes a burner problem a shorter appointment than the same problem on a range. There is no code table for these, and it is worth knowing that before you go looking Every manual this maker links from its own product pages was read. The induction cooktop pages carry installation sheets and no chapter of codes at all, so anything you find online offered as a table of this maker’s induction codes has no first-party source behind it. If your top shows something, photograph it and note what it was doing — that combination still distinguishes a board that has failed from a board that is protecting itself, which are very different repairs and very different bills. Induction and the Miami island The single most common reason an induction top misbehaves in this city is a cabinet with nowhere for air to go. The installation instructions ask for a specific opening and a specific clearance; a beautiful sealed island built afterwards does not know that, and the appliance shows it as an intermittent zone rather than as a breakdown. Worth checking before it is worth quoting. What to have ready when you call The model number, which is on the underside and usually needs a phone held up into the cabinet, whether it is gas or induction, whether the problem is one zone or all of them, and the code exactly as it appears if there is one. ### What is the difference between a cooktop and a rangetop? A cooktop drops into the counter with a cabinet or an oven underneath. A rangetop is the top half of a range with nothing under it — heavy grates, the same burners, controls on a front panel — designed to sit above a wall oven or a bank of drawers. Nine of the thirty-four here are rangetops. They are repaired identically, which is why both are on this page. If you are unsure which you have: a rangetop has a raised back and knobs on a front face; a cooktop sits flush with the counter. ### My induction top is showing a code. Does that mean the top is finished? Usually the opposite: a code is the appliance telling you which part of itself is unhappy, which is a much better starting point than silence. On this make the induction codes are a short, real list rather than a long invented one, and several of them describe a condition rather than a failure — too hot underneath, a pan the coil cannot see, a supply outside the range the board will accept. Write the code down exactly as it appears, including any leading letter, and tell us whether it clears when the power is cycled and how long it takes to come back. ### One induction zone stops mid-cook and the others are fine. That is usually heat rather than the coil. Every position has a power board beneath it, those boards make heat of their own, and they are cooled by air pulled through the cabinet. A sealed island in a Miami kitchen often has nowhere for that air to come from. Three things cost nothing to check: whether the cabinet has the ventilation the installation instructions asked for, whether anything is stored tight underneath, and whether the same zone fails with a different pan. If it fails on one zone with everything clear, that zone is the repair. ### The burner clicks and clicks after it has lit. Take the pan off, let it cool, lift the cap and set it back squarely — a cap a fraction out of place is the commonest reason a sealed burner keeps sparking at a flame that is already there. Boil-over into the port and a draft from an open slider will both do it too. If it still clicks with a clean, dry, correctly seated cap and a steady blue flame, the sensing side wants looking at rather than the ignition side. ### There is a crack in the glass. Can I keep using it? No. On an induction or radiant surface the glass is not a cover over the working parts, it is a structural part of the appliance and it is what keeps liquid out of the electronics underneath. A crack, a chip at an edge, or a ring that has gone rough and milky are all reasons to switch it off at the breaker and call rather than to cook around it. --- **[Read full article: Cooktops and rangetops](https://bertazzonimiami.support/appliances/cooktop/)**